Car Won't Start? 9 Common Causes and What to Do Next

You turn the key or press the start button and nothing happens, or the engine cranks and cranks but never catches. When your car won't start, the sound it makes (or doesn't make) is the best clue to what is wrong, and to whether you need a $140 jump start or a tow to a shop.

Here are the most common causes our drivers find on the road, how to tell them apart, and what you can safely try yourself before calling for help.

First: listen to what the car is telling you

1. A weak or dead battery

This is the most common reason a car won't start, by a wide margin. Signs include rapid clicking, dim or flickering dashboard lights, a slow, labored crank, or a car that starts fine one day and not the next.

Batteries usually last a few years, and heat is hard on them. In places like Dallas and Houston, long hot summers wear batteries out faster than cold climates do, and the failure often shows up on the first cool morning in fall, when the engine needs more power to turn over.

What to try: a jump start. If the car starts and stays running, drive for at least 20–30 minutes so the alternator can recharge the battery, then have the battery tested. Most auto parts stores test batteries for free.

2. Corroded or loose battery terminals

Sometimes the battery is fine, but the power cannot get out. White, green or bluish crust on the battery posts, or a cable you can wiggle by hand, can stop a car cold.

What to try: with the engine off, check whether the cable clamps are tight on the posts. Avoid touching corrosion with bare hands. If the terminals are badly corroded, a jump may still work, but cleaning or replacing the terminals is the long-term fix.

3. A failing alternator

The alternator recharges your battery while you drive. If it fails, the car runs on battery power alone until the battery is drained. Warning signs: a battery or "charging system" warning light while driving, headlights that dim at idle, electrical features acting strangely, or a car that dies again shortly after a successful jump.

What to try: if a jump start gets you going but the car dies again within minutes, the alternator is the likely culprit. Don't keep jumping it. Get a tow to a repair shop instead.

4. A bad starter motor

A single loud click when you turn the key, with dashboard lights that stay bright, often points to the starter or its solenoid. You might also hear grinding or whirring without the engine turning.

What to try: make sure the car is fully in Park (or press the clutch in a manual) and try again. If you still get one click and bright lights, the car almost always needs a shop.

5. Out of fuel, or a fuel delivery problem

It happens to everyone: the gauge was lower than you thought, or the gauge itself is faulty. If the engine cranks at normal speed but never catches, fuel is the first thing to rule out. A failing fuel pump can cause the same symptom; you may notice you no longer hear the pump's brief hum when you switch the ignition on.

What to try: if you could be out of gas, fuel delivery ($150 including 3 gallons) is far cheaper than a tow. If there is fuel in the tank and it still won't fire, it needs a mechanic.

6. Key fob battery or immobilizer issues

Push-button cars need to detect the key. A weak fob battery can cause a "key not detected" message even though everything else is fine. Many cars let you start by holding the fob directly against the start button or placing it in a marked slot; your owner's manual shows where.

The anti-theft immobilizer can also block starting if it does not recognize the key. A security light flashing on the dash is the clue. Try your spare key before anything else.

7. Steering wheel lock or gear selector

If the key will not turn at all, the steering lock may be engaged. Turn the steering wheel gently left and right while turning the key. Also check that the car is in Park or Neutral; many cars will not crank in Drive, and a worn gear-position switch can confuse the car about which gear it is in.

8. Flooded engine or ignition problems

Older cars that were pumped with the gas pedal, or short trips in cold weather, can leave too much fuel in the cylinders. Worn spark plugs and ignition coils can also cause crank-but-no-start, especially on high-mileage engines. These are shop jobs, and repeated cranking only drains the battery further.

9. Electric vehicles: the 12V battery

EVs have a small 12V battery that powers the computers, locks and screens. When it dies, the car can look completely dead even though the main battery is full. A boost to the 12V system often brings it back to life. Read our EV towing guide for more, and never attempt to jump the high-voltage battery.

Safe things to try before you call

1. Turn off headlights, the radio, A/C and anything plugged in, then try again.

2. Check the gear selector is fully in Park and wiggle the steering wheel.

3. Try the spare key or hold the fob against the start button.

4. Look at the battery terminals for looseness or heavy corrosion.

5. Wait a few minutes between attempts. Cranking for more than 10 seconds at a time can overheat the starter.

If none of that works, stop cranking. You will save the battery and the starter, and the person who comes out will have a better chance of getting you going on the spot.

Jump start or tow: which do you need?

Call for a jump start if you hear rapid clicking, the lights are dim or dead, or the car was fine yesterday and has been sitting. With RoadReady Tow it is a flat $140, with no membership.

Call for a tow if the car cranks normally but won't fire, you hear a single click with bright lights, it dies again right after a jump, or there are warning lights, smoke or strange smells. Towing is $150 to hook up plus $10 a mile, and the dispatcher confirms the total before sending a truck. Not sure? Describe the symptoms when you call and we will recommend the cheapest option that will actually work. You can also see all our prices or book online.